The bleak side of Calabria

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It was cold and damp in our AirBnB; we went out to the car to get our sleeping-bags to keep us warm in bed.

But this felt right – here in Papasidero – a bleak ancient hill-town 40 minutes from the sea up a dark forest valley.

We purposely wanted a stop that was different. And the unexpected funeral preocession through the steep alleyways set the tone. Everywhere was empty, derelict and grim. As we wandered around we only had two stray dogs for company.

In the poorest region of Italy this is life for many – a far cry from the fashion malls of Milan or the beaches of the Amalfi Coast.

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