It was a remorseless journey, with sadistic drivers that didn’t allow you off the bus to stretch your legs (although there was a loo on board).
But the scenery was spectacular. Lakes and forested hills soon changed to semi-arid plains with wild horses, rheas and vicunas all spotted.
Most of Route 40 was tarmac but not all – for two hours we crawled along at around 20 kph on an unsealed road.
Eventually, after 25 hours we were at El Chalten. 30 years ago there was nothing here, but thankfully it still has a frontier feel despite getting a sealed road from El Calafate five years ago. We went out hiking to rejuvenate our legs.