Eights blocks south of the centre, the San Telmo area has Bohemian charm – mixing glittery antique shops with artist studios.
The elite of Buenos Aires lived here until the 1880s, then a series of epidemics drove them northways to Recoleta. Left behind was a grocer’s shop that also sold alcoholic drinks and it’s still here today.
Now called Bar Plaza Dorrego, the original espresso coffee maker is still on display, also the glass windowed cabinets that used to store bulk items such as mate-tea, corn, beans and noodles. The dark wood surroundings are covered in graffiti – words of love and football.
We took a window seat, enjoyed a light lunch and people-watched. Highly recommended.